From One Lake to Another
We have spent 3 full days in Malcesine enjoying the wonders of Lago di Garda. It is really an amazing place. On our first full day here, we wandered into town and checked out some of the shops before snagging a water-side seat at my favourite restaurant here - I like it so much I have a photo taken from it on my wall in my kitchen. We enjoyed Soave (a wine from this region that I regularly purchase at home) and our lunch. The best part of sitting there is watching the comings and goings in the tiny harbour. We then wandered around the little town a bit and checked out some of the shops.
Next, we wandered back to our hotel which is an easy walk along the Lungolago, the pathway along the lake, mainly for pedestrians. The only difference from previous visits here is that now you have to be cautious about the cyclists (many more of them) and the e-bikes which generally are going way too fast and you can't hear them. Guess they don't come equipped with bells in Italy!! Delcie went for a swim in the lake while I enjoyed sitting on the terrace in the sunshine. The hotel serves complimentary tea or coffee with cake from 4:30 to 5:30 daily. So, I enjoyed that - as did the little bird that kept trying to steal crumbs.
Monday, we walked back into the centre and took the ferry to Sirmione at the southern tip of the lake. The boat ride was 2 1/2 hours going but we managed to get a "rapide" boat back and that only took 1 1/2 hours. The cost for a return ticket was 35 euros. It was interesting to see the towns from the water that were the 8 stops between Malcesine and our destination.
| The white building in the centre is our hotel. |
Sirmione is at the top of a peninsula at the end of the lake and has a medieval castle. Basically, you enter the village by walking across what would have been the drawbridge. However, our ferry docked in the town centre. There isn't a lot to Sirmione and, while it is pretty, there are only a few shops but there are tons of hotel and even more restaurants. Further, there must be a gelateria on every corner! We had lunch sitting on the dock of one of the restaurants. Interesting the prices here were about double of what we were paying Malcesine. For example, an Aperol Spritz here was 11 euros and it is under 5 euros where we are staying. Of course, after lunch, we had to go and have a gelato - 6 euros. I tried the passionfruit cheesecake flavour. It was excellent but way to rich for me. After that, we decided we just wanted to go back "home". We got back around 4:30.
| Our lunch spot on the deck at the Hotel Sirmione |
Tuesday is market day in Limone, across the lake from Malcesine. I had been there before and hadn't been impressed but we decided to give it a go, particularly because of the market. There is a private ferry which runs regularly for 9 euros return so that is what we did. We managed to make the one at 9:45 and, 1/2 hour later, we docked right where the start of the market is. It was really crowded, mostly with Germans. There were only a few food stalls but, if you were searching for leather jackets, belts, wallets and purses, this would your dream market. We spent close to an hour there getting pushed and shoved around and then gave up. We wandered up some of the narrow streets and along the lake front but we pretty much done by the time the 11:30 ferry was due to leave. We'd planned to go back at noon but were lucky to get the last two seats on the earlier sailing. My impression of Limone had not changed and, like Sirmione, I could care less if I never see it again. At least I tried!
Back in Malcesine, it was an easy decision to head back to the restaurant on the harbour and have our lunch there again - this time I ordered the same salad Delcie had had the other day plus, of course, Soave wine. I am sure going to miss this place and, of course, I have no idea if I will ever be back here. After lunch, we checked out more of the shops here, the castle, and found the panorama vista where I have taken photos before. By then, my back had had enough so I decided to just get a taxi back to the hotel rather than walk the 1.5 km.
Later in the afternoon, I had tea on the terrace and then, around 6:30, because the hotel restaurant is closed on Tuesdays, we walked toward town and had dinner at the Ristorante Gabbiano. Hard to believe half a litre of Bardolino wine cost only 7.50 euro! I am not sure what the white wine was but, when you think about the price on menus at home, these are good prices and, bear in mind, these include tax and a tip!
On the way back along the Lungolago, we had a great view of the castle in the town.
And, with that, our time here is pretty much done. Tomorrow, we trade this lake for Lago Como and, while we know Mr. Clooney has sold his villa there, I am sure we are going to have a lovely time in Bellagio. Stay tuned!
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